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Subject Just ask, I don't bite. I'm easy to get ahold of and while
     
Posted by whatsthegoodword on October 03, 2007 at 2:17 AM
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In Reply To I have the cable and software, but.... posted by pieboy100 on October 03, 2007 at 01:11 AM
     
Message they've floated this idea, many cars which have different normal readings. Here are some definitions to the best of my understanding in the meantime.

O2 is read as percentage of full scale. 50% being what the ECU is aiming for as ideal mixture. The O2 sensors should be sensitive and fast moving, so when you hold the car at a steady 2000rpm (for example) the O2 sensors should oscillate back and forth between about 20% and 80% every second. The O2 sensors do this only when they are warm, if they are slow to react then either they have some gunk in them and need to be cleaned or replaced.

The injector reading is in Milliseconds, and Duty cycle in percent of total time that the injector spends open. If your injectors go past 92% then its time for bigger injectors or to increase your fuel pressure. Make sure you get a custom tune or properly adjusted chip if you do this.
tps: around 0.5->4.5v, closed->open
aac/iacv: less than 50 at idle?
inj pulsewidth: dependant on load
afm: dependant on load, but ~1v idle, and < 5v at max load (if its hitting 5, time to upgrade - typically only issue for turbo cars)
battery voltage: 12v-14v (14 when running)
timing: varies, but generally should be BTDC (not negative BTDC or position ATDC depending on how its shown).
o2: should vary a few times per second from close to 0v to close to 1v. (eg 0.1 up to 0.9v and back). if its 0v constant its probably not plugged in/wire cut. if its 0.3v or there abouts constant, its dead and time to replace


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